Author Archive for Jill Kammer

Make Sure You See Rome’s Villa Borghese

by Ruby Kammer

Rome resembles many big metropolises because it is always alive with outdoor things to do. So when you are a tourist in Rome, the pace can be non-stop, which can make you wish you could find a quiet and peaceful place to relax . And the spot that fits that description perfectly is the Villa Borghese.

While Villa Borghese is not the largest facility of its kind, the 148 acres has a lot to offer, including many museums, aviaries and a wonderful and relaxing artificial lake. In the 16th century Cardinal Borghese bought the vineyard and transformed it to fit his vision that was inspired by Versailles. The Cardinal himself drew the initial designs, sketching out a villa that he later saw constructed to fit his vision.

An artificial lake, which contains a small Ionic temple was added towards the end of the 18th Century.

Just as Cardinal Borghese took great pleasure in admiring the peacocks, ostriches and other exotic birds in the aviaries where gazelles once stayed, these birds are there for your enjoyment as well.

At the turn of the 20th century, the Villa Borghese was donated to Rome as a public space and by that time it had been developed significantly to include a number of temples, fountains and other outdoor artwork. In fact, you will find the original Tritons who labor in the Fountain of the Moor that you see in the city. The Tritons you find at the more famous location are recreations of these statues.

This delightful 100 year old park offers delights and new things to discover whenever you are there. It is not uncommon at the appropriate time of year to find Siena Square in the park hosting horse jumping competitions that you can enjoy. There is a tranquil botanical garden for you to linger in and it is common to find outdoor concerts being performed at the Piazza di Siena Amphitheater. And not far from the botanical garden you can find a stunning Baroque arch that dates to the 18th century entitled the ‘Arco di Settimio Severo’.

If you feel your appetite come up, you don’t have to leave Villa Borghese to attend to your need as there is a quaint bar in the middle of the park where you can get some authentic Italian pasta or just sit back and enjoy a leisurely Campari. As you lounge in the cafe, you may be able to spot an installation of several pavilions from the 1911 World Exposition that is on display in the park for you to enjoy.

Of the many great things to see and do at the Villa Borghese, probably the museums draw the most attention.

Naturally you will find a good representation of Bernini sculpture on display since that artist is the man most often credited with designing many of the outdoor fountains in Rome. The Museo e Galleria Borghese does not disappoint, so you can find such brilliant Bernini pieces as Bernini’s Abduction of Proserpina by Pluto here. This gallery is well diversified with the artwork of a number of well respected artists including Titian and Raphael.

Another notable museum got it name because the building was originally the summer home for Pope Julius II in the year of 1553. So in the Villa Giulia you can find a museum named Museo Nazionale Etrusco - so named because the museum is primary devoted to showing Etruscan works that have been brought from excavations from the hills not far from Rome.

It is easy to find the entrance to the Villa Borghese because it can be found just north of the Spanish Steps. Navigate to that location and you will find the entrance at the end of the Via Veneto and above Piazza del Poppolo and the Porta Pinciana. The Villa Borghese is a wonderful place to spend a morning and get that rest and quiet that is so helpful during a busy tourist schedule and to recover in time to go out for an exciting time exploring the Roman nightlife.

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When In Rome, Visit St. Peter’s Basilica - A Vatican City Delight

by Jill Kammer

St. Peter’s Basilica, otherwise known as Basilica di San Pietro has always been a tremendously popular attraction of tourists to Rome. Visitors to the site can happily pass a day taking in all there is to see there. Of the many popular locations in Vatican City, St. Peter’s ranks high in popularity and number of visits by tourists.

The popular lore says that Saint Peter is actually buried here but that legend is not backed up by evidence. The real history of the location of St. Peter’s is that it probably sits on the original Circus of Nero from the first century.

The site was selected for a basilica when Constantine, the Christian Emperor of Rome ordered one built there in the fourth century. That first building was constructed a thousand years before St. Peter’s was located there.

Some 1200 years later in the sixteenth century, it was Pope Leo X who diverted funds from his appeal to the masses to go to holy war against the Turks. Those funds were quietly applied to the building of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

But as was the way with any very large and ambitious construction effort of that time, it took many, many years, many architects and many Popes before the job was done in the late 16th century.

St. Peter’s is a tall building even by sixteenth century standards. From the floor to the very tip of the cross on that famous dome above, the basilica towers 445 feet in the air. That dome is a revered part of the Roman skyline and it is an amazing architectural design all by itself. None other than Michelangelo himself designed the great dome and that famous Renaissance artist employed a double-shell design technique that was created by San Gallo.

While Michelangelo become the lead designer of the building in 1546, he never saw it completed before his death. It was another architect, Giacomo della Porta who saw the project through to completion in 1590. That design is so well known and admired by architects that has been copied frequently in famous buildings around the world including the United States Capital Building in Washington.

That dome was so well constructed that two centuries passed before any stress cracks were found. When signs of aging did occur, four huge chains of iron were made and affixed to the inside of the pair of shells. You can see those chains still if you were to climb the spiral stairs that are there between the two shells of the dome of St. Peter’s.

As wonderful as it is to admire the magnificent dome at St. Peter’s, there is so much more to see here. The building itself is so large it covers close to six acres and at full capacity it can seat 60,000 people. And over the centuries, many Popes have packed the basilica out for special ceremonies or when they held mass at this revered site.

Step outside the huge building and you will find the large faade which stands some 377 feet wide and over 148 feet tall. In addition, there are a number of fine sculpture art pieces that decorate the outside of St. Peter’s.

It is said that over 100 tombs of legendary figures from history are buried inside the halls of St. Peter’s Basilica. One notable example is Sweden’s Queen Christina, who in 1654 gave up her royal post so she could have the freedom to become a Catholic.

There is no doubt that the most revered and valuable art work in the basilica is Michelangelo’s Pieta. You will find it behind protective glass after a lunatic attacked it with an ax in 1972.

When touring the grounds outside of St. Peter’s in addition to the dome, there are a number of notable and historical art works to look for.

Look for several very old clocks, including one that actually has a bell and dates back to the last part of the thirteenth century. From that same time period, an Egyptian style obelisk stands nearby, the origin of which goes back to Nero’s Circus.

As is true all over Rome, two wonderful artistic fountains can be found in the square outside St. Peter’s. On the south side is a fountain made by the brilliant artist, Bernini who created it in 1675. Bernini also created the second fountain near the apse of the church, the Triumph of the Chair of Saint Peter which is not to be missed.

Your visit to Rome will take on new meaning if you allow at least a couple of hours to take your time and admire this awe inspiring example of Renaissance architecture in the Eternal City.

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Domus Aurea - The Golden House of Emperor Nero

by Jill Kammer

Recently Rome opened the Golden House of Nero to public viewing and it is an attraction not to be missed. It is interesting that the ruins were discovered long ago during the Renaissance but it was in the late 20th century that they were prepared to be seen by you and I.

Everybody knows that Nero fiddled while Rome burned. The Golden House of Nero was built in 64 AD after that huge disaster and it is filled with amazing finds. Nero spared no expense on himself using gold plating liberally and filling the ceiling with precious stones to honor himself. Sadly, these riches cannot be viewed if you go there. Looters had their way with the Golden House of Nero not long after the decadent ruler passed away.

We know from history that the original complex easily covered 350 acres and supported a lake that was created for Nero, as well as fine vineyards and other luxuries. A strange quirk of the house is that even with 300 rooms, there were no bedrooms. But when you think of the wild orgies Nero threw, every room was a bedroom in that respect.

One of the amazing art works that is now located outside the Colosseum was a magnificent 40m (130ft) high statue that was on the grounds of the house It was a triumphant image of Nero that he made to honor himself.

Time has taken its toll on the palace but there is a lot of great things to see when you visit the house. Not only is seeing the Palace a delight but Rome is such a delightful and welcoming city. And in Rome often the weather is as delightful as the sights.

You can take a fascinating underground tour, with an audio guide to see the huge variety of rooms and vaults of the house. Fabullus, who was one of the most famous artists of the time, painted the many frescoes you will see there using a style he learned in the city of Pompeii.

Fabullus isn’t as well known to us but his work was inspirational to Michelangelo and Raphael as well as diverse characters like Casanova and the Marquis de Sade. So keep a sharp eye out because these historic characters actually signed the walls of Nero’s house and you may see those signatures on your tour.

In some cases the ruins are hard to make out and the artwork is still shrouded in ruins. But you won’t be disappointed because you will also see some amazing artwork fully restored on the ornate walls where the artist painted them hundreds of years ago.

You will get a good exposure to grotto style rooms during your tour. But when you enter the amazing Octagon room, it will be a true highlight of the day. This room showed Nero’s admiration of that famous emperor and the Dying Gaul statue that was housed there, that can now be seen elsewhere at the Palazzo Altemps museum.

But don’t miss out on enjoying the great gardens and grounds during your stay. The organizers also have a replica of the Octagonal Room for you to examine which will give you a real feel for how it was to live in this amazing time in history in Nero’s house.

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The Famous Campanile in St. Mark’s, Venice

by Jill Kammer

You haven’t truly seen Venice until you see the bell tower (the Campanile) of the Basilica di San Marco and St Mark’s Square. This is the structure around which the rest of Venice revolves. It is also considered the symbol of the soul of Venice.

Although next to a cathedral, the bell tower is free-standing. It’s plain but elegant next to the overdone gaudiness of the cathedral. It towers almost 100 meters high (323 feet) and has a base of 39 square feet. It has to be that big and sturdy to house the five bells. Atop the spire is a weather vane in the shape of the Archangel Gabriel.

What exists today is actually a replica of a replica. The second St. Mark’s Campanile (the first to take on its familiar shape) collapsed for no known reason in 1902 after 500 years of faithful service and was rebuilt in 1912.

The current incarnation of St Mark’s Campanile is based on the second tower, which sports the shape and features that made it world-renowned. It was this second tower that Venetians fell in love with and began to identify with. Non-Venetian fans of St Mark’s Campanile include Galileo and Goethe (who wasn’t even Italian).

Venetians appreciate the many services the unique bell tower has performed for the city. Not only do the bells help save their souls, but they also have served to warn of incoming armies. Because it was the biggest structure in Venice for many centuries, they military used it for defensive purposes, while tourists and artists have used it to “see forever”.

The bells ring for different reasons. The largest bell rings just to herald the start and stop of a work day. One rings just to herald the ninth hour. Another is reserved just to summon the Venetian politicians to go to the Doge’s Palace.

At first, a big brick structure sounds a bit boring, but the Campanile is anything but boring. The eye is immediately drawn to the simple brick tower base. The upper portion has bricks covered in gold leaf (this is what turns the tower into a lighthouse). The belfry is covered with bas relief of lions (the animal of St Mark) and a goddess-like figure that is supposed to represent Venice.

Many tourists enjoy taking the elevator ride up the Campanile to enjoy the view and the interior artwork of the tower. They can also see the intricate marble works of the attic and meet the bells in the belfry.

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